By Staff Reporter | Somerset-Pulaski Advocate
Somerset, KY- After several years, rumors, and much media hype, The Urban Stillhouse Somerset is finally open. Following the establishment of the restaurant's first location in St. Petersburg, Florida, Somerset's will be the newest Urban Stillhouse. It is intimately associated with Horse Soldier Bourbon, which has been actively involved in the community through various means, most notably sponsorships, and which broke ground in October 2021 on its highly awaited distillery and entertainment lifestyle complex on the grounds of the former Waitsboro Hills golf course. However, following a first weekend open for a special private preview party, the Urban Stillhouse is nearly ready to become Somerset's newest destination for wine (or bourbon) and dining—the most recent eatery to open in Somerset's Fountain Square, the former Goldenberg Furniture building. Since the project's construction started about two years ago, there has been a lot of discussion on local social media about when or even if the business would ever be open.
Dining Room, The Urban Still House, Somerset, KY Photo by author (C) 2024
Background:
Meredith Koko, owner of the Urban Stillhouse and daughter of Horse Soldier Bourbon co-founder John Koko, told the local newspaper during a February 2024, " "We're done," she said, noting that the last touches involved making sure everything was lined up for the ability to serve liquor. Koko explained "It was a massive build-out," she added of the process to this point. "It's a beautiful building, but it needed a lot of infrastructure work. We definitely had a long lead time on our beautiful furniture, which is normal—II think 16 to 24 weeks on a lot of this stuff—so it just took a long time."[7]
The Urban Stillhouse is reservation-only for all dining, including bar seating. They offer countertop seating along the upstairs railing and the lounge is available for walk-ins on a first come, first served basis and offers appetizers and cocktails. The restaurant is live on the reservation app OpenTable; "Reservations are not going to be mandatory but they are going to be recommended," said Koko. She also noted that the restaurant plans on offering lunch, but would rather the Urban Stillhouse start out with fewer hours and be able to expand them as time goes on.
The Menu:
The menu offerings combine modern and traditional American dishes, offering creative twists on time-honored favorites. They utilize only the freshest meat, fish, and fruit that are acquired locally, and they change the menu seasonally to assure quality and uniqueness. Using oak staves from our whiskey barrels, the wood-fired grill creates an amazing open flame flavor for Bourbon-inspired dishes that are prepared to order.
Our dining experience:
This place just opened a few days ago. We went there for Sunday brunch, and we were not disappointed. Our server was Tara, and she was one of the most amazing and attentive waitresses we have ever had locally. I ordered the Stillhouse Burger with a side salad, and my wife got the Stillhouse Eggs Benedict. The burger is served with a Brioche bun, bacon, whiskey cheddar, and caramelized onion. I did not opt for the sunny side up egg. It was also served with hand-cut, seasoned fries. The large stone fireplace is a centerpiece of the dining area. The food and the service were a true dining delight. We will return.
Urban Benedict:
Much like the Stillhouse Eggs Benedict from the Florida menu, the Urban Benedict is on a thin biscuit, with a *fried green tomato and porchetta (*ours didn't come with a fried green tomato). It is served with a chive Hollandaise sauce and home-made *fried potatoes (*we didn't receive fried potatoes and we forgot to ask about them—we are also not sure this is porchetta). Even without the fried tomato and potatoes and question of meat, it was the best eggs Benedict in the area. Hands down. The best.
Historically, Eggs Benedict has had a unique and fascinating history. According to the menu at Delmonico's in Lower Manhattan, "Eggs Benedict was first created in our ovens in 1860."[1] The first recipe for Eggs à la Benedick was also published in 1894 by Charles Ranhofer, one of its previous chefs. [2]. A retired Wall Street stockbroker named Lemuel Benedict said in an interview that was published in The New Yorker's "Talk of the Town" column in 1942, the year before he passed away, [3] that he had wandered into the Waldorf Hotel in 1894 and ordered "buttered toast, poached eggs, crisp bacon, and a hooker of hollandaise" in an attempt to get over his morning hangover. The maître d'hôtel, Oscar Tschirky, was so taken and impressed by the dish that he added it to the breakfast and lunchtime menus, but he replaced the bread with a toasted English muffin and the bacon with ham. [4]
Edward P. Montgomery later indirectly claimed on behalf of Commodore E. C. Benedict, to have created Benedict eggs. Montgomery claimed to have acquired a recipe from his uncle, a commodore's acquaintance, in a 1967 letter he sent to Craig Claiborne, the food columnist for The New York Times at the time. The recipe that is provided by Montgomery for Commodore Benedict differs significantly from the Ranhofer version, especially when it comes to making the hollandaise sauce, which calls for adding a "hot, hard-cooked egg and ham mixture.". [5]
Many variations of eggs Benedict exist, involving replacing any component except the egg: The Stillhouse version is quite consistent with the original and most common method of serving. It certainly does justice to this iconic breakfast offering and so far, is a favorite.
Stillhouse Bourbon Burger:
The traditional hamburger has been a staple in most all of American cuisine. There are numerous international and regional variations of hamburger. Hamburg is the second-largest city in Germany and is where the phrase "hamburger" originated; nevertheless, there is no direct link between the city and the dish. [6]
The Stillhouse Bourbon Burger comes with a lightly toasted fresh brioche bun with the option of a standard topping in addition to a fried egg as an option for brunch. The menu states that the burger is Black Hawk Wagyu, and based on personal taste, apparently this is a rather high-quality meat source, containing just the right amount of fat, not being dry or crumbling when it is bitten into. In addition, the burger comes with "local white cheddar and bourbon glaze." The house cut fries that are severed on this side, are a welcome change from the traditional frozen variety that is common in most restaurants today.
Atmosphere
The decor to this place is simply breathtaking, and it is amazing what work has been done. Outstanding, given the conditions of a building that is over 100 years old and has served as Somerset Landmark for decades. Businesses have failed in this location since Steve Fischer announced the closing of the family name's sake furniture store, Goldenberg's, on Jul 22, 2009. But the Stillhouse seems to be off to a good start, although a delayed one. The official dress code for The Urban Stillhouse is smart casual. "While business casual and formalwear are not required, many of our guests chose to celebrate special occasions with us, so the dining room can sometimes feel formal."
The management strives to adhere to a standard of decor that balances the new to make patrons always feel at ease and at ease, while equally keeping up the fine furnishings, mood, and fine dining experience to meet customer expectations. They therefore have the following policies in place, and they reserve the right to refuse your business if they are not followed. Even in the summer, don't wear beachwear or flip flops. You shouldn't wear sweats or sportswear to a gym or workout clothing. Men should wear shorts or pants in the country club style; women may use their discretion when choosing jeans that are frayed or have tears in them.
(C) 2024, The Urban Stillhouse, Somerset, KY
The Commander's Club:
Over the years, there have been several attempts in various forms to offer some type of exclusivity establishment, with varying degrees of success. The Stillhouse presents a new concept enjoined with the restaurant. The Commander's Club, located in the upstairs area of the building, offers a unique member-only option available to those who wish to have an enhanced experience. Those who wish to join the Commander's Club can complete an online application process. "It'll basically ask you for a referral and your line of work and basic information, which is really common," said Koko, comparing it to the process used by the Louisville Thoroughbred Society. Koko explained that this process takes time to "make sure that we're offering really good hospitality to the members." [8]
Currently, hours are: Wed-Sat: lunch served 11 a.m.–5 p.m.; dinner served 5 p.m.–10 p.m.
Sunday: brunch served 11 am - 5 pm
References:
[1] "Delmonico's Menu". Delmonico's Restaurant. Archived from the original on September 27, 2016. Retrieved September 28, 2016.
[2] "The Epicurean—A complete treatise of analytical and practical studies on the culinary art, including table and wine service, how to prepare and cook dishes, etc., and a selection of interesting bills of fare of Delmonico's from 1862 to 1894.". The Internet Archive. Retrieved April 17, 2014.
[3] Benedict, Cutts. "Eggs Benedict New York: Feedback". Archived from the original on December 1, 1998.
[4] "Talk of the Town". The New Yorker. December 19, 1942.
[5] Claiborne, Craig (September 9, 1967). "American Classic: Eggs Benedict." The New York Times.
[6] Harper, Douglas. "hamburger.". Online Etymology Dictionary.
[7] Harris, C. February 20, 2024. Urban Stillhouse looks to open in late March. The Commonwealth Journal. https://www.somerset-kentucky.com/koko-at-urban-stillhouse/image_805f92d8-d03a-11ee-aedc-03ad7cc75012.html
[8] Ibid.